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    Features

    Global Trends in Skin Care and How the Facial Wipe Market is Evolving

    Cleansing wipes market is booming, outpacing growth in other categories

    Global Trends in Skin Care and How the Facial Wipe Market is Evolving
    Global Trends in Skin Care and How the Facial Wipe Market is Evolving
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    Vito Cataldo, North America Marketing Manager, Lonza Consumer Care09.12.16
    Consumer wipes can offer a range of functional benefits in skin care beyond make-up removal and moisturization. By thinking “outside the box,” wipes producers can respond to evolving facial care trends such as age management and protection from environmental aggressors to create the next generation of facial wipes. And, the market is wide open for growth in new areas.

    Data from Canadean Consumer Market Data Analytics 2015 shows the global skin care market has been growing steadily for many years and is still the fastest growing segment in personal care. The compound annual growth rate (CAGR) from 2000 through 2019 is estimated to be 5.2%. Facial care is, by far, the largest segment within skin care. While the global skin care market currently grows at around 6%, the facial cleansing wipe market is booming, with about 10% projected annual growth over the next several years. 

    Recent data from Mintel GPND show some interesting trends in market claims, which present opportunities for wipes and for other product forms to attain more consumer relevancy.
    • First, botanical/herbal (more generally, natural) claims have overtaken moisturization as the most popular claim in skin care. Some facial wipes already respond to this trend by using natural extracts such as aloe vera, etc. There are further opportunities with natural ingredients in this segment.
    • Second, claims for time and speed are rapidly growing. Much of the growth rate for facial wipes is attributed to their convenience for on-the-go and speed of use, positioning wipes perfectly for this market trend.
    • Third, anti-aging and related claims are seeing strong growth across all facial care categories, presenting a great opportunity for other product forms besides antiaging creams.
    Global Skin Care Trend – Age Management
    Anti-aging has become a multidimensional concept with multiple facets. Mitigating wrinkles, addressing hyperpigmentation, firming¸ sculpting, brightening and evening skin tone are all key strategies for managing aging. However, for most people, it is no longer about looking younger, but instead about managing the appearance of their skin. As Canadean reports in “Redefining Anti-Aging Marketing Strategies for the Beauty Industry” (January 2016), consumers are now embracing their age, and rather than look younger they want to simply look good for their actual age. An older woman knows it is unrealistic to turn back the clock 20 years, so she will use beauty products to look like a better version of herself.  As Deciem founder Brandon Trueaxe says, “The real interest is in aging well and appearing healthy, happy and ‘well aged’.”

    As anti-aging terminology shifts towards the more relevant “age management,” many brands have changed their marking messages as well. For inspiration, seek out Darphin’s Exquisage Beauty Revealing Cream, where the brand is encouraging consumers to “enjoy your age, stay curious, laugh, and keep moving.”

    Global Skin Care Trend: One Size Does Not Fit All
    Millennials, who make up the U.S.’s largest consumer segment by population1, are highly individualistic and want to “have things their way.”  54% of 25-34 year-olds are appearance-conscious consumers surveyed worldwide in 2014 believed they would view customized or personalized products more favorably.

    Manufacturers can respond to millenials’ desire for customizing skin care routines by embracing consumer creativity.  Consider allowing them to design or personalize aspects of their product, such as packaging, fragrance, color, functionality, benefits, etc. For inspiration, you can turn to The Body Shop’s Shade-Adjusting Drops. This product allows consumers to customize the shade of their foundation to more perfectly match their individual skin tone.

    Global skin care trend: Environmental Protection
    UV protection is seen as an essential function across all categories. Traditionally incorporated into sun care products, UV protection is now a feature of skin and hair care products and makeup. 67% of consumers globally believe that spending less time in the sun can help them look younger. This attitude toward UV avoidance highlights the potential for other environmental aggressors to be treated in the same way— via avoidance.

    Global urbanization and industrialization raises awareness of the negative impacts of urban environments on health. In fact, the World Health Organization (WHO) reports 54% of today’s global population is urbanized. So, there is a responsive market and high potential for innovation in providing skin care products that combat exposure to environmental stressors.

    Environmental aggressors, such as pollution, can cause collagen/elastin breakdown in the skin, hyperpigmentation, inflammation and dehydration. The collagen/elastin breakdown increases fine lines, wrinkles and age spots. Research shows that some 35% of global consumers are concerned about looking old as a result of pollution, and maintaining the firmness and elasticity of their facial skin in light of it.

    Anti-pollution skin care formulations are gaining traction to combat the effects of smoke, gas, particulates, heavy metals, ozone, reactive oxygen species (ROS) and light beyond just UV protection. For inspiration, Dior is offering a “beauty shield” to the market with their One Essential City Defense facial sunscreen. It claims to protect against toxins using a triple anti-pollution action, which is positioned nicely for urban consumers. 

    Global Skin Care Trend: New Multifunctional Beauty
    Simplicity of using a single product remains the greatest benefit consumers associate with multifunctional products. Companies arrive at multifunctional products in a number of ways: innovating within a single category (such as “two-in-one” shampoo conditioners for hair care) or drawing from multiple categories (such as tinted moisturizers for both skin care and cosmetics). [Source: Canadean Evolution and Future of Multifunctional Beauty Innovation, April 2015.]

    In today’s multifunctional beauty world, alphabet creams have pioneered the new multifunctional innovation era: BB or “Blemish Balm,” CC or “Color Corrector,” DD or “Daily Defense” and EE or “Even Effect.”  For inspiration, formulators can look at Estee Lauder’s Enlighten EE Skintone Corrector. According to its label, it is designed to give a “hint of healthy color” and minimize the appearance of dark spots, sun spots, blemishes, redness, and pores while also featuring SPF30, antioxidants, and hydrating the skin.

    Alphabet creams are popular worldwide. 42% of global consumers claim to use them once a month or more often. While alphabet creams are used across various age groups, they are most popular among those aged 25-34.  Thus, this age group is a key target for new multifunctional innovation.

    As with alphabet creams, consumers are looking to the facial wipe market to provide multiple benefits and to supplement or replace their skin care regimens. The multifunctional claims being made in facial wipes mirror some of the claims seen in the skincare market. These include moisturization, exfoliation, brightening, etc.

    Opportunities for Next-Generation Facial Wipes
    The newer global skin care trends above are not currently well-addressed in the wipes market.  They provide opportunities for innovation and responding to consumer concerns, such as the following:
    • Management of visible effects of aging – through mitigating the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, and firming/sculpting;
    • Customization – enabling consumers to design or personalize aspects of their product;
    • Environmental aggressors – products that help mitigate the visible effects of environmental aggressors such as UV rays and air pollutants;
    • Naturally derived products;
    • Appearance consciousness – pressure to look one’s best.
    Moreover, awareness of today’s global skin care trends can build a foundation from which we can begin to predict what the next generation of wipes may look like. 

    Regarding age management: Consumers are more comfortable with their age, but recognize that their skin has unique needs depending on what life stage they are in. One possibility—and a nice marketing opportunity—is to offer a range of facial wipes, one for each age segment.

    For example, wipes designed for 18-35 year olds could offer moisturization, environmental protection, oil control, and pore minimization, which reflect the most relevant needs of the younger millennial consumer.  On the other hand, wipes for the 35-55- year-old set could feature anti-oxidants, exfoliate the skin and address fine lines as this segment starts to see the effects of sun damage on their skin.  And, wipes for 55 and up could be designed to repair the skin barrier and improve the appearance of age spots and skin firmness.

    Regarding customization: Consumers are looking for products tailored to their individual needs. Wipes and personal care manufacturers can respond to this consumer preference by offering segmented products within a range, and by enabling customization at home.  Here’s the opportunity: Develop a range of wipe liquids with different actives that the consumer can mix and match at home. These can be sold alongside pre-packaged dry substrates in which the consumer can add their customized liquid and become part of the process.

    Regarding environmental protection:  Anti-pollution and UV protection are making their way into more products – skin, hair, cosmetics, etc. In wipes, consider the opportunity to generate “on-the-go” facial wipes that contain UV protection, anti-oxidants and film formers that can provide a protective barrier for the skin from the sun and elements.

    For new multifunctional beauty: Leverage the alphabet cream craze in wipes. Consider a new “CC”—cleanse and correct—wipe.  This CC could be a cleansing facial wipe that offers skin correction benefits such as barrier protection and moisturization. “EE” can have another meaning too: energize and enhance.  An EE wipe could be a wake-me-up wipe that energizes the skin and enhances the natural skin tone. Of course, wipes manufacturers can create a wipe with an entirely new alphabet designation: “PP” for protect and promote.  The PP wipe could protect facial skin from environmental stressors, (UV, pollution, etc.) and also promote a healthier appearance of the skin. Be mindful of language though, as consumers might confuse a “PP” wipe to be more suited for bathroom use than facial use. Choosing the wrong product name can be the difference between a market success and a market failure!

    Conclusion
    While the skincare market continues to grow at levels around 5- 6%, the facial cleansing wipe market is booming at around 10% annual growth. Current facial wipe offerings are beginning to promote such skincare claims as moisturization, exfoliation and brightening. But the new global trends in skincare are beyond just ingredients; consumers are looking for products that match their lifestyle choices.

    To innovate in response to market opportunities:
    • Think outside the box about facial wipes.
    • Draw inspiration from skin care trends to spur thinking about wipes and, most important,
    • Consider wipes a delivery system for skin care solutions, and not just a tool for cleansing.
    Driven by the philosophy, “Inspire the Formulator... Excite the Consumer...™” and with expertise in skin care and chassis ingredients, the Lonza personal care business is uniquely positioned to help manufacturers create new and innovative facial wipes. In addition to understanding customer needs, Lonza personal care experts understand skin physiology, formulation, and ingredients that might improve efficacy. That’s why the company encourages wipes producers to partner with skin care experts to help build the evolving next-generation facial wipes.n



    Reference: (1) https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2016/04/26/its-official-millennials-have-surpassed-baby-boomers-to-become-americas-largest-living-generation/
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